True to its name, Blackjack Bar Tapas in Midtown feels like a gamble. After all, the previous restaurant in the location, Irish pub Ri Ra, shut down during the pandemic, and a costly transformation of the space was needed.
But Blackjack owner Niki Pattharakositkul has been on a winning streak with 26 Thai, her successful chain that now has 10 metro-area locations. She said she always has “been drawn to the energy of lively cocktail bars,” so she took over the space and bet on herself.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
Despite extensive remodeling, the bones of Ri Ra are still visible in the dark wood paneling of the exterior and interior. Pattharakositkul said she wanted to preserve the original bar imported from Ireland.
While the restaurant’s exterior feels like a mishmash of styles, the dimly lit interior is more cohesive, thanks to such decorative elements as chandeliers made from Thai lanterns, the heads of dragon costumes mounted on the walls and multiple fountains with running water.
The dining room has heavy, tufted leather chairs, whose modern design partially encircles the person sitting in them, adding to the clubby atmosphere.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
The service staff knows how to tell the restaurant’s story, and the emphasis on the craft cocktail menu differentiates the place from 26 Thai. Pattharakositkul said her cocktail menu ideas were brought to life by Beverage Director Sean Gleason.
Most of the drinks were quite good, with the mango sticky rice cocktail evoking the classic Thai dessert without tasting overly sweet. And the lychee cocktail, complete with a trendy, Instagram-worthy smoke bubble, proved to be more than just looks. It was a surprisingly strong but subtle martini-style drink made with rum and a hint of pear.
Not every gamble paid off, though. The nigiri cocktail, a sushi-inspired drink made with clarified tomato, sushi vinegar and wasabi, tilted too far into savory territory. It was a bit like drinking salad dressing.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
For an establishment aiming to be a nightlife spot, the food was better than it needed to be. Enoki tempura was fun finger food, with the long, thin mushrooms functioning much like french fries. Salt and pepper shrimp were juicy and well-seasoned, while the addictive crispy Thai larb meatballs were served in an old-school folded paper takeout box. A chicken sando featured excellent fried chicken with a combination of crispiness and richness that was especially satisfying after a few cocktails.
Some of the entrees also fell into the late-night guilty pleasure category. The kimchi fried rice was impossible to stop eating, thanks to an addictive — but not too spicy — gochujang sauce. However, the portion felt chintzy based on the price — up to $39 if you get a combo of two of the meats offered (chicken, shrimp and steak). Similarly, a plate of spicy squid ink spaghetti with shrimp was neither as spicy as advertised nor as large as expected for $35.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
The wonton noodle soup was a solid value at $23, with tender, tasty shrimp-stuffed dumplings. The bowl also included lobster meatballs, but those were bland compared to the dumplings.
The lobster in a pot was the most dramatic entree, served in an iron bowl over a live flame. The shell spiking out at the top turned out to be just for show, with the meat already picked out. A little more lobster in the bowl would have been nice, but the huge portion of noodles ensured no one left the table hungry.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
The menu had two attractive desserts. The peach mousse was more flavorful, but the banana meringue was impressive, thanks to a carapace of toasted meringue.
Opening a restaurant here without gutting the space always was going to be a long shot; time will tell whether Pattharakositkul is holding a winning hand.
BLACKJACK BAR TAPAS
2 out of 4 stars (very good)
Food: Thai
Service: very good, but sometimes slow
Noise level: moderate to loud
Recommended dishes: enoki tempura, salt and pepper shrimp, chicken sando, crispy Thai larb meatball, crispy rice tuna, lobster in a pot, paneer teriyaki, kimchi fried rice, chicken katsu, peach mousse
Vegetarian dishes: nut medley, garlic asparagus, corn cheese croquette, enoki tempura, edamame, fries, paneer teriyaki
Alcohol: full bar with focus on creative cocktails
Price range: $75-$100 per person, excluding drinks
Hours: 5 p.m.-12 a.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays, 12-10 p.m. Sundays
Accessibility: fully ADA-compliant with street-level entry, although lots of heavy chairs in the main dining room could present a problem for wheelchairs.
Parking: two hours validated in deck at 1010 Midtown building
Nearest MARTA station: less than a 10-minute walk from Midtown station
Reservations: recommended
Outdoor dining: yes
Takeout: yes, online ordering through Toast
Address, phone: 1080 Peachtree St. NE, Atlanta. 404-748-9675
Website: blackjackbartapas.com
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s dining critics conduct reviews anonymously. Reservations are not made in their name, nor do they provide restaurants with advance notice about their visits. Our critics always make multiple visits, sample the full range of the menu and pay for all of their meals. AJC dining critics wait at least one month after a new restaurant has opened before visiting.
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