Dumpling Factory, a new, more modern counter-service restaurant from the owners of Northern China Eatery, retains much of the original establishment’s menu, offering traditional Chinese cuisine with a focus on dumplings, pot stickers and steamed buns.
The space feels almost spare, especially compared with other high-design restaurants and bars in the Westside Paper development. There’s some fun dumpling art, including a large neon dumpling sign, but the design is more dorm room than Architectural Digest, which could prove off-putting to some diners.
However, that likely isn’t a concern for Dumpling Factory since it appears to do a brisk takeout business. Still, the restaurant’s excellent food is likely to please those who stick around to eat their dumplings fresh.
Like pizza, dumplings are at their peak immediately after they’re first cooked. The masterful cooks at Dumpling Factory make every dumpling by hand, though the little steamed delights were impressively consistent.
The dumpling wrappers were just firm enough to hold everything together, but tender enough to fall apart as soon as you started to chew.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
The fillings in each dumpling were distinct and flavorful; the taste of pork, shrimp, beef or lamb easily was discernible, despite being well-seasoned with salt and aromatics, such as chives.
Every variety of dumpling also can be ordered as a pot sticker, a preparation method that adds more texture.
While all of the dumpling varieties were good, the Shanghai juicy buns with crab roe reached another level. Those savory soup dumplings were filled with pork and a wonderfully aromatic ginger broth that added an extra layer of complexity.
Served six to an order, the juicy buns are more expensive on a per-item basis than the main dumplings, which are served by the dozen.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
The crab rangoon was another standout item, available as part of a special menu posted next to the ordering counter. The rotund, crispy puffs of fried dough were stuffed full of melty cream cheese, a total departure from the anemic versions you’ll often find elsewhere.
Even such supporting players as the scallion pancake clearly were lavished with attention. Dumpling Factory’s version of the flatbread was fried until it was crisp, but still with a crumb that was moist, tender and almost stretchy.
The expansive menu, bolstered even further by specials offered at the counter, also offers plenty of Chinese takeout mainstays, such as stir-fried noodles and fried rice, which was satisfying, if not exceptional. There are also vegetarian options for nearly every dish on the menu.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
I’m not sure I’ll ever understand the appeal of sweetened bean paste in dessert pastries, but Dumpling Factory’s dense, fluffy steamed bun filled with the stuff was one of the best versions I’ve tried.
On one of my visits, our server generously offered us some snowskin mooncakes, a spin on traditional mooncakes that replaced the exterior pastry with chewy mochi. Our server explained she had made the beautiful, multicolored cakes herself ahead of the Mid-Autumn Festival, also known as the Mooncake Festival, a traditional Chinese harvest celebration.
Our lovely interaction with that server encapsulates the appeal of Dumpling Factory. Your dinner might be served by a robot with trays on it that drives up to your table, but the food is crafted carefully by hand and the hospitality is warm and inviting. The restaurant feels much less like a factory and more like a neighborhood gathering spot.
DUMPLING FACTORY
2 out of 4 stars (very good)
Food: Chinese
Service: good, but limited to counter
Noise level: music is a touch loud, but otherwise not a problem
Recommended dishes: crab rangoon; pork and chive dumplings; pork, shrimp and chive dumplings; lamb and zucchini dumplings; beef and carrot dumplings; pan-fried pork buns; Shanghai and crab roe juicy buns; pork and chive pot stickers; pork, shrimp and chive pot stickers; lamb and zucchini pot stickers; beef and carrot pot stickers; scallion pancake; tiger salad
Vegetarian dishes: vegetable dumplings; vegetable buns; sweet bean paste bun; vegetable pot stickers; vegetable fried rice; egg fried rice; vegetable stir-fried thick noodles; vegetable stir-fried angel hair rice noodles; scallion pancake; tofu hot pot; salted cucumber salad; tiger salad; salted carrot, potato and cilantro salad; cabbage salad; salted mixed veggies; wood ear mushroom salad; Shanxi cold noodles
Alcohol: no, although your receipt provides a discount at the bottle shop next door
Price range: $25 or less per person, excluding drinks
Hours: 12-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays
Accessibility: easily accessible and ADA-compliant
Parking: free lot
Nearest MARTA station: none
Reservations: no
Outdoor dining: yes
Takeout: yes
Address, phone: 950 W. Marietta St. NW, Atlanta. 404-941-9352
Website: instagram.com/dumplingfactory_atl
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s dining critics conduct reviews anonymously. Reservations are not made in their name, nor do they provide restaurants with advance notice about their visits. Our critics always make multiple visits, sample the full range of the menu and pay for all of their meals. AJC dining critics wait at least one month after a new restaurant has opened before visiting.
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