Since December 1948, the Met Gala has taken place the first Monday in May. It‘s commonly considered the fashion industry’s most coveted event and it serves as the annual gala for the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.
The Gala serves two purposes. There is philanthropy, as the event raises funds for the Met‘s Costume Institute, which houses more than 33,000 objects of fashion going back seven centuries. It also allows artists of various disciplines to represent thematic style at the highest level.
Annual themes have varied in nature but at this year’s 2025 gala, “Black dandyism” is taking center stage, with observers experiencing “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” showcasing Black designers. It will be the first gala in more than 20 years to spotlight menswear and the legacy of dandyism.
Black designers such as Torkwase Dyson, Tanda Francis and Andre Grenard Matswa will take center stage through their designs at tonight‘s gala. Their looks will also be displayed at an exhibition within the Met from May 10 through Oct. 26, and in images captured by star photographer Tyler Mitchell in the exhibition’s 372-page catalog.
Credit: Invision
Credit: Invision
Dandyism is a traditional style of dressing for Black men that exemplifies and elevates elegance, individuality, and resistance through dress. Since the early 1800s, Black men have used tailoring and fashion as tools for self-expression, character, values and cultural identity.
There are certain fundamental aspects of Dandyism:
Intentionality: Every element — from lapel width to sock color — is chosen with purpose. It‘s about crafting a narrative through dress.
Elegance with edge: Sophistication is central, but often infused with bold color, unexpected textures or Afrocentric accents.
Historical reference and modern twist: Homage is paid to figures like Frederick Douglass and the Harlem dandies, updated with today’s tailoring, flair and cultural symbols.
Subversion of stereotypes: Dandies dress to counter narratives of Blackness as being threatening, hypermasculine or unrefined. The style becomes social critique.
Self-Possession and performance: How a dandy wears the garment matters. Posture, grooming and charisma complete the look.
Credit: Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP
Credit: Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP
Political and social statements have also been a platform within dandyism.
In fact, an episode of the podcast “Dressed”: The History of Fashion, noted that the famous abolitionist, Frederick Douglass used clothes to deliberately control his image, symbolizing his intellect, refinement and self-possession.
As a formally enslaved man, Douglass used personal presentation, including tailored clothing, to challenge the racist idea that Black people were inferior or uncivilized in order to defy degrading stereotypes. His desire was to secure a blue suit made of serge, a durable, classy twill fabric that was a symbol of power and moral authority.
Douglass was the most photographed man in the 19th century, surpassing Abraham Lincoln. He often appeared in a dark tailored suit because he understood the importance of photography and political storytelling.
He wanted to be a notable figure in the community, so he laid the groundwork for future generations of Black dandies to embody their freedom and justice, and inspired others to redefine their image to influence public opinion.
“Black Dandyism is a powerful reclamation of elegance and individuality — a celebration of Black identity through style, confidence, and cultural pride,” said Derek Reid, a client adviser in fine apparel at Neiman Marcus.
“I see it as a bold statement that honors heritage while challenging norms, proving that fashion is both resistance and renaissance.”
Dandyism has evolved from a form of resistance and identity into a contemporary style movement that reclaims elegance, challenges stereotypes and centers Black creativity.
While earlier interpretations of Black Dandyism focused on resistance through assimilation, in the modern era that resistance occurs through redefinition. Masculinity through formal tailoring has expanded to allow gender-fluidity, and expression that leans toward the avant garde. More than simply reclaiming humanity for Black men, today’s Dandyism allows further reclamation of creativity and visibility.
It‘s also not just local anymore; Dandyism has gone global and digital.
Consider the Harlem Renaissance, and some of its cultural nuances, including unique fits, flare, color choices and various embellishments. The styles disrupted European standards of dress, allowing ladies and gents to strengthen, and affirm, their places in society with dignity and grace.
Artist, writers, thinkers and musicians — such as W.E.B. DuBois, Langston Hughes, Miles Davis, Cab Calloway, Duke Ellington, Andre Leon Talley and Dapper Dan — have led the way for some of the guests attending Monday night‘s grand affair.
Those guests will include Colman Domingo, Lewis Hamilton, A$AP Rocky and Pharrell Williams, who along with Wintour serve as the evening’s co-chairs. LeBron James will serve as the evening’s honorary chair.
Atlanta will be represented well in the Gala’s host committee, which includes Andre 3000, Usher, Atlanta native Spike Lee and honorary Atlantan Janelle Monae.
Credit: Victoria Will/Invision/AP
Credit: Victoria Will/Invision/AP
In contrast and comparison, the modern-day style of these men will reflect the early messages of style and culture dandyism, subliminally conveyed to society.
I’m excited to see Usher, along with legendary streetwear designer Dapper Dan, and how Dandyism will be interpreted by women like Sha’Carri Richardson and English designer Grace Wales Bonner.
When done right, it‘s really about fit, boldness, harmony, confidence and storytelling through art and personal style.
As a Black male growing up in Detroit, now living in Atlanta, my personal roots of style are multicentered in church, fraternal brotherhood and business engagement. My hope is that the evening will be a catalyst and reminder for Atlanta to show men that “style matters,” and “occasion, time and place” can be foremost as we communicate a sense of freedom and being seen on your own terms.
Credit: Kristina Tochilko
Credit: Kristina Tochilko
Seventy-seven years ago, a ticket to attend cost $50. The cover charge now exceeds $75,000, even though admittance isn’t guaranteed. The guest list for the “Oscars of the East” is as exclusive as the fashion. To be admitted you must be personally invited by Vogue’s editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour.
It‘s refreshing that this year’s Met Gala will have representation of Black excellence from head to toe, and whether or not we received an invite, we’ll certainly be in the building.
Darryl Lesure is a style anthropologist, longtime Atlantan by way of Detroit, and owner of That Part, a styling and consultancy firm based in Atlanta.
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