The team behind Side Saddle Wine Saloon is upfront about highlighting female and LGBTQ winemakers.
That policy of the new wine bar, located by the forthcoming Atlanta Beltline Southside Trail, might alienate some potential customers. But it likely won’t be an issue once the Beltline brings its thirsty throngs through the Boulevard Heights neighborhood.
A more pressing concern might be whether the restaurant, an ambitious but bootstrap venture, can handle the inconsistent but sometimes heavy crowds when they arrive.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
With its well-executed food, interesting wine list and fun specials, there’s a high likelihood the wine bar will be mobbed at times by Beltline walkers. Those same characteristics make it worth a visit even if you’re not just strolling by.
Unfortunately, the Side Saddle team overhauled the menu shortly after my last visit, keeping just a handful of the dishes that I tried, including the headlining smash burger, a tightly packaged umami delight that stood up well to some of the bold, natural red wines on the list.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
Another impressive dish still around is the grazing board, a generous platter of meats, cheeses, snacks and condiments served with tender house-made focaccia. Many restaurant charcuterie boards appear to be overpriced afterthoughts, but Atlanta’s new class of wine bars is taking them seriously. And Side Saddle’s grazing board was stacked with enough prosciutto, salami and high-quality cheeses to keep multiple people snacking through happy hour.
A new menu of dips also has been introduced since I visited. I have tried only the hummus, but it was impressive, with a slightly rough texture and mild but insistent flavor. The restaurant also offers a selection of more indulgent dips, such as smoky pimento cheese, herbed goat cheese, smoked salmon and deviled egg.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
The wine list is updated regularly and frequently features bottles found only at Side Saddle. Restaurant owner Kayla Bellman said Side Saddle’s wine buyer, Jett Kolarik, has strong connections with distributors, niche importers and many of the small producers the restaurant features.
Side Saddle’s wines come from all over the world, with a focus on value; most glasses cost around $15, and bottles tend to be less than $60. Nearly all the wines are made with low-intervention, naturalistic techniques.
Some of the wines I tried were crowd-pleasers, such as an elegant, muscular French Syrah from Domaine de l’Ecu or the approachable pinot noir from Washington’s Gilbert winery.
Others were more interesting, including a dense, challenging nebbiolo from Mexico’s Casa Jipi.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
Patrons who don’t drink wine will find plenty of cocktails and nonalcoholic drinks at Side Saddle as well. The house cocktails put a twist on familiar classics, such as a Kentucky mule made with bourbon and a Tami Collins, a take on the Tom Collins with ginger and turmeric added.
It’s clear that Side Saddle puts plenty of effort into its food and drink, and the service is friendly, professional and brisk. But the restaurant’s limited footprint and the small team running it can lead to occasional service hiccups.
During one visit, our grazing board was served after our entrees, because there was only person working in the kitchen, our server told me. On another visit, after we had waited a bit too long for our cocktails, our server returned and said the bar didn’t have the correct ingredients for the drink I’d ordered.
Those are minor issues, but Side Saddle seemed to be in need of a little streamlining before it’s ready for prime time on the Beltline. The menu changes appear to be a shift toward simplified service, so the restaurant has shown it can adapt. With a passionate, flexible group behind it, Side Saddle seems like a horse worth betting on.
SIDE SADDLE WINE SALOON
2 out of 4 stars (very good)
Food: American, wine bar
Service: friendly, knowledgeable
Noise level: low to moderate
Recommended dishes: grazing board, hummus, Caesar salad, smash burger
Vegetarian dishes: cheese plate; rodeo fries; marcona almonds, olives and smoky seasoned snack mix; charred broccolini; fried okra; crispy mushrooms; smoky pimento cheese; deviled egg dip; creamy onion dip; herbed goat cheese dip; whipped eggplant dip; hummus; peach and tomato salad; Caesar salad; mixed greens; Impossible burger; grilled veggie skewers
Alcohol: full bar with a changing selection of wines
Price range: $25-$50 per person, excluding drinks
Hours: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Wednesdays, 5-11 p.m. Thursdays-Fridays, noon-11 p.m. Saturdays, noon-10 p.m. Sundays
Accessibility: fully ADA-compliant
Parking: paid
Nearest MARTA station: none
Reservations: yes, via Resy
Outdoor dining: yes
Takeout: yes
Address, phone: 680 Hamilton Ave. SE, Atlanta. 770-790-7886
Website: instagram.com/sidesaddlewine
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s dining critics conduct reviews anonymously. Reservations are not made in their name, nor do they provide restaurants with advance notice about their visits. Our critics always make multiple visits, sample the full range of the menu and pay for all of their meals. AJC dining critics wait at least one month after a new restaurant has opened before visiting.
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