The windows are the first thing anyone will notice upon visiting Brasserie Lundi, the new French restaurant in Midtown.
Large, arched, floor-to-ceiling windows allow light to pour into the space, which is both literally and figuratively elevated. The design of a modern French brasserie is understated and elegant, leaning into the ample natural light and street views afforded throughout the dining room. The space is also set half a floor above grade, creating separation from the sidewalk and ensuring those big windows don’t create a fishbowl effect.
It’s a lovely setup in one of metro Atlanta’s most pedestrian-friendly neighborhoods, encouraging the type of all-day cafe dining quintessential to Paris and other French urban centers.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
The next thing diners might notice is how truly French the menu reads. Hospitality HQ, the New York-based company that runs Brasserie Lundi and the adjoining mini-food hall, the Peacherie, didn’t put a croissant and steak frites on a standard menu and call it French. Executive chef Akhtar Nawab and his chef de cuisine, Nicholas Tarnate, also offer rustic French classics like ham terrine, mouclade, halibut en papillote and, for brunch, a serious croque madame.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
There are global influences, as well, even in the most French of dishes. Escargots are served shell-less in a rich risotto, while the mouclade, a classic dish of steamed mussels, involves the extra step of grilling the shellfish before they’re flavored with Sichuan peppercorns.
The range displayed on Brasserie Lundi’s menu is admirable, but the execution yields mixed results. On the positive side, the highly traditional halibut en papillote, a halibut fillet baked inside a parchment paper package with leeks, fennel, white wine and smoked trout roe, was wonderful. The charred paper package is snipped open by a server at the table, releasing a fragrant plume of steam and revealing the tender, flaky fish inside.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
Another French classic, steak frites, is simple and satisfying. It arrived properly cooked to medium-rare and generously dressed with a buttery Cafe de Paris sauce that enhanced the flavor of the beef rather than overwhelming it. The pommes frites are nicely done, if not life-changing, made in-house with the labor-intensive but necessary process of cutting, blanching, freezing overnight and a final fry before service.
Other dishes didn’t quite live up to the lofty expectations engendered by the beautiful space and creative menu. The ham terrine felt a little clumsy, made with ham chunks that felt a little too large and flavor that only seemed to hit one note.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
The mouclade, which Akhtar described as one of his favorite dishes in an interview with The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, didn’t deliver on all its promised flavors. The grill didn’t make much impact on the mussels, which lacked char and smoke. The Sichuan peppercorn barely made a cameo on the palate, and I found myself wishing for more from the broth, too. Based on Akhtar’s description of the mouclade, I’m not sure the version I had was executed to the standard he envisioned.
At brunch, the cooking was more consistent. A platter of oysters on the half shell had firm, pure-tasting East Coast oysters dressed in a pink peppercorn mignonette. The avocado toast delivered solid flavor and the added heft of a poached egg, but the real standout was the classic croque madame.
Blanketed in a luxurious, velveteen Mornay sauce and topped with a runny egg, Brasserie Lundi’s croque madame is pure, simple indulgence, like donning a warm, fluffy bathrobe straight from the dryer. The effect is helped by a thick piece of toast that holds up under the sauce but retains a tender chew at its center.
Credit: Courtesy of the Peacherie and Brasserie Lundi
Credit: Courtesy of the Peacherie and Brasserie Lundi
The service staff at Brasserie Lundi acquitted itself well, though it was clear at times that the front of house lacked a little experience. They appeared well-trained but not yet completely comfortable with the slightly elevated service style. Occasionally, servers were slow to move to the next step of the meal or unfamiliar with a place setting.
During a quiet brunch visit, our server seemed to momentarily forget about our table after serving our entrees, leaving us to wait a little too long before we could ask for the check. Still, the staff was unfailingly friendly and welcoming, adding to the restaurant’s general atmosphere of comfort and ease.
Brasserie Lundi might not be the city’s next great culinary destination, but it’s an extremely pleasant restaurant that can serve multiple purposes. Whether that’s people-watching over coffee and a croissant, a happy hour chat with a nice glass of French wine or a romantic sunset dinner, Brasserie Lundi is a welcome addition to the Midtown neighborhood.
Brasserie Lundi
2 out of 4 stars (very good)
Food: French with global influences
Service: well-trained, occasionally inexperienced
Noise level: low to moderate
Recommended dishes: shrimp cocktail, salade lyonnaise, lamb merguez croquettes, escargot risotto, halibut en papillote, burger lundi, steak frites
Vegetarian dishes: gnocchis a la parisienne, fried green tomato, pommes frites, pommes puree, fricassee de champignons, broccolini grilles (without bagna cauda) and haricots verts
Alcohol: full bar with a mostly French wine list
Price range: $50 - $100 or less, per person
Hours: 8 a.m.-3 p.m. and 3:30-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 8 a.m. - 3 p.m. and 3:30-11 p.m. Fridays, 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. and 5-11 p.m. Saturdays, 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. Sundays
Accessibility: fully ADA accessible thanks to a ramp at the front of the building
Parking: 2-hour validated parking in building’s B North deck, metered street parking (free on Sundays)
Nearest MARTA station: Arts Center
Reservations: yes, found on Resy
Outdoor dining: yes
Takeout: yes
Address, phone: 1375 Peachtree St. NE, Atlanta. 470-741-2419
Website: brasserielundi.com
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s dining critics conduct reviews anonymously. Reservations are not made in their name, nor do they provide restaurants with advance notice about their visits. Our critics always make multiple visits, sample the full range of the menu and pay for all of their meals. AJC dining critics wait at least one month after a new restaurant has opened before visiting.
About the Author
Keep Reading
The Latest
Featured
