Metro Atlanta bars stir up autumn in a glass

Straight off the vine from their 1-acre restaurant garden, butternut squash is the muse for this silky, almost custard-like cocktail at Milton’s. Beneath the frothy top dusted with baking spices, bourbon, maple and the hand-harvested sweet squash is a cornucopia of autumnal flavor.

Milton’s Cuisine and Cocktails. 800 Mayfield Road, Milton. 770-817-0161, miltonscuisine.com.

Hogwash Old Fashioned at Capolinea

The classic old-fashioned is highly adaptable with the seasons; think muddled fruit in the summer and herbs in the spring. Director of Beverage Evan Sewell transports the timeless drink to fall by infusing lardo into Four Roses bourbon for rich and smoky campfire vibes. Murrell’s Row Eno amaro and a couple of dashes of orange bitters add spice.

Capolinea. 159 Northside Drive NW, Atlanta. 404-223-4414, capolineaatlanta.com.

Like a walk in the woods with crunchy, sunset-colored leaves underfoot, the Pumpkin Spice Mule at Palo Santo is refreshing, spicy and crisp, balanced with just the right amount of sweetness. It is built in a highball glass with Grey Goose vodka, fresh-squeezed lime, ginger syrup and pumpkin spice liqueur, then garnished with a lit cinnamon stick for whimsy and aroma.

Palo Santo. 955 W. Marietta St. NW, Atlanta. 678-944-8783, palosanto.restaurant.

Time to Fernet at Belén Bistro

Citrus-forward, but with the spiciness of rye whiskey, the herbal bitterness of Fernet and a lingering mint finish, Belén’s Time to Fernet is an adaptation of a whiskey sour. Whiskey’s caramel and vanilla notes complement the bitter liqueur’s earthy menthol in perfect balance. (I requested extra Fernet in mine.)

Belén Bistro. 115 Sycamore St., Decatur. 470-990-7052, belenbistro.com.

Beverage Director Kirk Gibson infuses Cocchi Americano with maple syrup-like candy cap mushrooms, then mixes it with rye whiskey. He introduces Paolucci Ciociaro amaro as he stirs, adding notes of cola, pine, gentian, cloves and wispy smoke. Cardamom bitters top off this beautiful ode in a glass that sips like a woodsy walk. In the coming months, he plans to winterize it with cognac and alpine bitters.

Lucky Star. 1055 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta. 678-994-6016, luckystaratl.com.

Moon Theory at Side Quest

Local Minhwa Spirits soju infused with galangal gives Moon Theory spice and earthiness at pop-up drink residency Side Quest (above Edgewood’s Pisces). The layered soju mule swirls with flavors of fermented melon, chartreuse and a fragrant tea made from snow chrysanthemum, which blooms just once a year. An isomalt (sugar substitute) disk in the form of a red moon is the edible garnish.

483 Edgewood Ave. SE, Atlanta. Instagram: @sidequest.atl.

An autumnal twist on a margarita, the brilliantly hued Anar (“pomegranate” in Persian) at Zafron shakes together blanco tequila, pomegranate juice, Cointreau, lime juice and agave syrup. It’s a balance of sweet and tart, showcasing autumn’s superfood.

Zafron. 236 Johnson Ferry Road, Sandy Springs. 404-383-5507, persianrestaurantsandysprings.com.

Kemuri at Himitsu

Named the literal translation of “smoke” in Japanese, Kemuri is the creation of mixologist Brendan Seery. He stirs Japanese whisky, bourbon, kijoshu (dessert sake), Benedictine, oloroso sherry and bitters into velvety richness that sips like the essence of fall. It’s full of saffron and cinnamon flavor from the herbal liqueurs, baking spices and citrus notes. The cinnamon and clove powder Seery smokes lends subtle smoke flavor and aroma.

Himitsu. 3050 Peachtree Road, Atlanta. 404-841-0040, umiatlanta.com.